What Is an Izakaya?

The word izakaya (居酒屋) breaks down as "stay-drink-place" — and that's exactly what it is. Part pub, part restaurant, the izakaya is where salarymen decompress after work, friends gather for long evenings of small plates and beer, and strangers occasionally become friends. It occupies a social role in Japan that's hard to match elsewhere.

Unlike a restaurant where you order one dish per person, izakayas work on a sharing model: tables are loaded with small plates (otsumami or sakana), drinks flow freely, and the evening stretches as long as the company demands.

The Otōshi: Japan's Cover Charge

Sit down at almost any izakaya and within minutes a small dish will appear — a bite of tofu, pickled vegetables, or a sliver of fish. This is the otōshi (お通し), a mandatory appetiser that also functions as the cover charge. You didn't order it, and you can't decline it. It'll appear on your bill at ¥300–¥600 per person. Don't be alarmed — it's standard practice.

What to Drink

The first order at an izakaya is almost always beer (toriaezu bīru — "beer for now"). From there, the options open up:

  • Nama bīru: Draft beer, typically Sapporo, Asahi, Kirin, or Suntory.
  • Chūhai: A highball of shochu with soda and a fruit flavour — lighter and very refreshing.
  • Highball (whisky): Japanese whisky highballs are enormously popular and usually very well made.
  • Sake: Hot (atsukan) or cold (reishu), depending on the season and your preference.
  • Shochu: Japan's versatile distilled spirit, drunk straight, on the rocks, or diluted with water or soda.
  • Oolong tea / soft drinks: Always available for non-drinkers, no questions asked.

What to Eat

Izakaya menus are designed for variety and sharing. Order several dishes and graze across the evening:

  • Yakitori: Grilled chicken skewers — thighs, skin, cartilage, liver. Order momo (thigh) to start.
  • Karaage: Japanese fried chicken, juicy inside and deeply crispy outside. Often served with lemon and kewpie mayo.
  • Edamame: Salted boiled soybeans. The default snack while you decide on everything else.
  • Agedashi tofu: Soft tofu in a delicate dashi broth — a quiet revelation if you've only had tofu in salads.
  • Sashimi platter: Most izakayas serve fresh raw fish. Quality varies, but neighbourhood spots near fishing ports are often exceptional.
  • Dashimaki tamago: A rolled omelette with dashi — soft, slightly sweet, and deeply satisfying.
  • Nabe (hotpot): In winter, a shared simmering pot of broth, vegetables, tofu, and meat or seafood.

The Unwritten Rules

  1. Don't pour your own drink. Pour for others and let them pour for you.
  2. Toast with kanpai (乾杯) before the first sip — glasses raised, eye contact made.
  3. Order food steadily through the evening rather than all at once — dishes arrive as they're ready.
  4. Get the attention of staff by saying sumimasen (excuse me) — waving is acceptable, snapping fingers is not.
  5. The bill comes when you ask for it. Staff won't present it without being asked. Say okaikei onegaishimasu.
  6. Splitting bills equally (warikan) is common and practical. Most groups do this automatically.

Finding a Good Izakaya

The best izakayas are almost never in tourist guides. Look for these signs of quality:

  • A handwritten menu — indicates daily specials based on fresh ingredients.
  • Full at 7pm on a weekday — locals know where the food is good.
  • No photographs of every dish on the menu — a sign of confidence.
  • The smell of charcoal grill near the entrance.

An evening at a good izakaya — unhurried, noisy, warm — is one of the most human experiences Japan offers. Go without a plan and let the menu lead you.